If Americans are obsessed with sports and the French with all things fashionable, then the Sicilians are obsessed with the dead. Just down the road from the camp where we stayed and worked this summer, there was a large cimitero (cemetary). I’ve been to cemetaries in the United States. Rarely, unless a funeral is in progress, are there many visitors. Not so at a Sicilian cemetary. This cemetary had a constant stream of visitors. And on the weekends, you would be hard pressed to find a parking place, though parking was plentiful. Widows dressed in black stood out to me. I asked our missionary Vincenzo what the length of time was that these women wore black. Sometimes for a year. Often for many years. Every day spent in a constant memorial of death. Everywhere, women dressed in black.
And in Sicily, you don’t just bury your loved one in the ground. That is only for the poorest of the poor to do. No. Every family has a family crypt. And families will do without, and scrimp, and save, in order to have the best crypt that they can possibly afford. And these crypts are not like your average American crypts either. They really try to outdo the Joneses. You need to spend at least 50,000 Euros to get a respectable crypt. The exchange rate of USD to Euros was just about 1.4:1 when we were there. In USD, a respectable crypt would cost you right around $70,000. That’s not even for a really nice crypt. That is just for one that you don’t have to be completely embarrassed about. Before I left I put this picture in a post:

I had initially believed it to be a view of the city, Ispica, from our campground. Now that I am home, I recognize it as a view of the cemetary taken from the road from Ispica down to the campground! It looks very much like a city with a cathedral, but it isn’t. Each of those buildings is a crypt! I was so fascinated by this cemetary. And each town had a similar one. The road signs even included signs pointing down the road you’d take to get to the “cimitero”.
Though all very different, each of the crypts had things in common. You could enter them as they were chapels. There was an eternal light on inside and pictures of the loved ones that were entombed there. There was an altar, a place to pray. Some had large quantities of fresh flowers, others had permanent plastic or silk flowers. Very few of these crypts looked like no one had visited in some time. I had to resist the urge to enter the ones that were unlocked.





Between the poorest famlies and those families who could afford crypts were the families who could only afford a place in these large banks of community crypts. Each of these crypts also had a picture, two vases for flowers and an eternally burning light.
Not speaking Italian, I initially wasn’t sure what all these papers plastered up all over the place were significant of. After learning a little Italian, and having my overgrown curiosity get the better of me, I finally set out to find out what they were.

They are paper memorials to the dead. Placed by the family of the loved one for years and years to come after their death. They could be found everywhere, even pasted to the fronts of people’s homes.
I am not sure why the Sicilians are so preoccupied with their dead. I have a theory, but had no method with which to test the theory. Sicily is a mostly catholic nation. The type of catholicism practiced there is quite different from the catholicism practiced elsewhere. It more resembles polytheistic religions when it comes to the number of individuals that are on the receiving end of worship. The worship of saints is pervasive. In most of the cathedrals I visited, in the most prominent spot hanging over the altar was not Jesus, as you would expect…there were statues of Mary, as though she was the most important element of their worship. Nearly every weekend there were festivals celebrating Mary of This and Mary of That. There were statues of many and varied saints in every town. People were often seen to stop by and pray to these saints. Sicilians, it seems, have lost their belief in Jesus. Perhaps having a cultural memory of the truth of Jesus plays out in their anxiety over having lost that truth and now, not having the hope of Jesus, are left with the fear of eternal loss. They fear that their loved ones are not going to heaven, but they don’t know why their fear is so great. They have ancient memory of having known the truth, but they no longer do. They try to remember and pray their loved ones into heaven instead of being able rest assured in the knowledge of the saving grace of Jesus Christ. It’s worse to have known the truth and lost it than it is to never have known the truth (2 Peter 2:20-22). And, if they are so anxious over the fate of their loved ones, how much more so are they anxious over what their own fate will be when they, too, die?
The small church that we went to work with was the only evangelical christian church in the three towns in the area. The only evangelical church for a population of nearly 100,000 people.
Sicily is a very beautiful, and very sad place with the dead present everywhere. The island where the early Chrisitan Church once flourished, and where the Apostle Paul once walked and taught, has forgotten Jesus.
Pray for Sicily.
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Day Two, and a Half
So I’ve been home now for two and a half days, or so. It feels as though I never left. Not an unusual phenomenon, but it always surprises me just a little bit when it occurs. Here’s the thing that is so weird to me. It doesn’t work that way in reverse. When I leave home and am gone for two and a half days, it doesn’t feel like I’ve never been at home. It only works when in the obverse. Just a random musing.
My laundry is finally done. Even though we were able to wash all of stuff at debrief in the washers, I felt compelled to wash absolutely everything again when I got home. Nothing every feels truly clean until it’s washed at home, and, in my case, double rinsed. And, because this is how my life works, the minute I jumped in the shower this morning the DHL guy showed up with my new AC adapter/power cord. I had to drive wayyyyyyy over to the DHL facility this evening to pick it up. Cool thing…the Dell guy who helped me out is a computer consultant and sales guy who is living and working in Panama City, Panama. He waived all the shipping fees even though I ordered it for overnight delivery. Saved me like twenty bucks!
I have been working on touching bases with friends and family. My family is big. It takes days to 1) find them all, and to 2) talk to them all. I caught my sister Whitney at work yesterday. She told me where to find her son, Mitchell. I called my Mom and she put Mitchell on. He didn’t know who I was at first, but when I told him, he sighed and said “Auntie LOU! I’ve been missing you SO MUCH!”. How cute is THAT??? And then later, he called me back. He told me “Auntie Lou, I forgot to tell you something…..I know how to tie my shoes!”. Two months seems like a really short time until you see how much a five year-old changes in that span of time.
Other changes that took me by surprise? Exubera. A really bad name for a drug that I am skeptical of at best. Inhaled insulin. Exubera?? Shouldn’t that be the name of some kind of anti-depressent or something? I’d been hearing about it for years, but had no idea it would hit the market this summer. What else? My brother has a girlfriend! My little brother. When did THAT happen? Oh, and I opened up my huge piles of mail only to discover that the 77th birthday party invitation for my uncle Jim said it was a surprise! I wrote to him from Sicily and I believe I mentioned the party and how I wished I could have been there to celebrate (he turned 77 on 7/7/7!). Aaaaand I’m pretty sure he got the letter before the party. And what’s the deal with Barak saying we should pull out of Iraq and attack Pakistan? Is he kidding? There are so many things wrong with that plan that I cannot even begin to write about them at the present time.
Now I’m going to watch some FOX news to see what other nutty things are going on in the world. And I’m going to start to process all the nearly 2000 pictures and videos I took this summer. Stay tuned. I’ll be sharing my summer soon.
One last item of business. Due to the particularly vile content and large amount of spam comments I recieved to my blog in my absence, I have reluctantly changed my settings to require my approval on any comments left. Rest assured that non spam comments will not be screened out (unless their content is foul, and that almost never occurs). I just need to make sure that no one wanders into my blog and finds links to things that no one should be looking at! ESPECIALLY not as a link from my blog! Sorry about having to do it. I had hoped that I could leave my comment forum wide open, but have found that I cannot do so any longer.
Pretty sad.
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Leave a comment | tags: "catching up", "comment approval", "ruining surprise birthday parties", Family, home | posted in Family, HA!, Lawrence (aka Low), Medical, Mitchell, Politicos/Politics, Soapbox, Whatever, Whitney